Dandruff

Dandruff is caused by a fungus called Malassezia, which feeds on the sebaceous oils produced by our hair follicles. This fungus is normal and is found on most everyone’s scalp. If you find yourself dealing with dandruff flakes (which differ from dry skin in that dandruff flakes tend to be clumped, waxy and a bit greasy) you may need to increase the frequency with which you shampoo.

If increased shampooing doesn’t stop the problem – or if you are already shampooing daily – you should look into using anti-dandruff treatment shampoos. These products contain ingredients like zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, and salicylic acid, or ketoconazole as active ingredients to kill the fungus and help bring the problem under control. Use the lather-rinse-repeat method and make sure to allow a good foamy lather sit on the scalp for 3-5 minutes each time. You may need to rotate between brands with different active ingredients in order to ensure that the Malassezia fungus doesn’t grow resistant to the product and thus become less effective. Switching brands once a month is a good means to combat this.

Once you manage to clear up the dandruff symptoms, you should be able to maintain the hair’s condition by using weekly applications of the product.

Some people prefer a more homeopathic approach to treating dandruff. If you prefer a more “natural” solution, try using a solution of 2 parts Vinegar with 6 parts water as a rinse for your scalp. You can apply this to the scalp and massage it in before bedtime (wrapping your head in a towel to sleep) and reapply the solution in the morning when you wake. After this, rinse your head with water.

Dry Hair

Dry hair is a common complaint among women when there are seasonal changes. Especially in the winter, when the hair is exposed to extreme changes in temperature, the hair can be leeched of its natural moisture. This moisture needs to be restored, and the best way to do it is to use a humectant-based conditioner to help the hair attract and retain moisture.

Another good way to moisturize the hair is through the use of Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). The scalp produces its own EFA in the form of sebum, which is produced by the hair follicle. However, when the hair grows longer, it becomes harder for the sebum to be distributed naturally along the hair shaft. On of the easiest EFAs to find (and one of the best) is Safflower Oil.

You can use Safflower oil to replace the missing EFA in longer hair by placing one or two drops of the oil in your palms and rubbing them together to spread the oil evenly. There should only be enough oil to make the skin of your palms shine. Use the palms of your hands to apply the oil to the ends of your dry hair by scrunching the hair and combing the fingers through the hair to distribute the oil as evenly as possible. The oil will be absorbed and will help to restore condition of your hair.

Frizzy Hair

When it comes to hair, “Frizz” is THE F-word you have to watch out for. For most people, frizz is the number one hair complaint and the enemy of most all styles and looks. Some hair types are naturally more prone to frizz, but there are always ways to combat the problem. Frizz is generally seem when the cuticle layer of the hair shaft is raised, or damaged.

Since a lot of the problems that lead to frizz are related to dryness and damage to the hair, the best method to combat frizz is also useful for helping to combat the damage that is done in daily styling. Here are some basic care and styling guidelines:

Shampoo using a low-detergent product, which is notable because they don’t lather heavily. When in doubt about which shampoos would fit this category, try those for fine hair. Follow up the shampoo with a moisturizing conditioner, since well-conditioned hair is healthier and looks shinier.

After rinsing the conditioner from the hair, DO NOT RUB the hair with your towel to dry it. Simply take the towel and press it against the hair and scalp to blot away the excess water. When you rub the hair to dry it, the friction between your hair, the fibers of the towel, and the other hairs on your head can cause damage to the cuticle layer of the hair shaft. This can make the hair MORE frizzed.

While the hair is still wet, apply a liberal amount of smoothing cream, or anti-frizz serum to the hair and comb it through to the ends using your fingers. Follow this up with a wide-tooth comb to evenly distribute the product through the hair. Once this is done, apply your styling products using the same method. This can be anything from styling gel to straightening balms, depending on your desired finish.

As for finishing the hair, the way you style the hair can have a big impact on the resulting level of frizz. For curly styles, it’s always preferable to allow the hair to air-dry naturally to minimize the level of frizz. Remember that the more you handle curly hair, the more “poof” you are likely to develop. If you need to blow dry your curls, be sure to use a diffuser attachment and the lowest possible heat setting.

For straight styling, you can let the hair air dry if your hair is naturally straight, or if you need to blow dry it to keep it straight, be sure to use a concentrator and keep the airflow directed away from the scalp – blowing in the direction the hair grows. This will keep the cuticle from being raised overmuch by the hot air. In addition, use only as much heat as is necessary, and use a flat paddle brush while drying to keep a small amount of tension on the hair as it is being dried.

For a super smooth finish (and to control that last bit of frizz) use a little extra smoothing serum and smooth over straight hair styles, or scrunch it into curly styles.

Baby Fine, Limp Hair

To add volume, use a styling gel on wet hair and distribute it evenly through the hair. Then, while bending over with your head down, blow-dry the hair. Be sure to switch to a diffuser when your hair starts getting dry to avoid over-drying. Once dried, stand upright and style your hair as desired.

Oily Hair

This is another common problem that is easy to help combat. When your problem is an over-production of hair oils it is important to keep the hair as clean as possible. This may mean daily shampooing in some cases. Just remember to treat your hair very gently when it’s wet to avoid damaging it.

Use a gentle shampoo if you’re planning on daily use – such as a baby shampoo – and shampoo the hair using very warm water, but follow up the shampoo with a cold water rinse. This helps to close the pores in the scalp and slow down oil production.

Furthermore, if you need a “between shampoos” freshener, try using a cotton pad and a mild astringent like witch hazel and swab the scalp where the hair appears most oily.

Avoid using heavy conditioning agents and oil-based smoothing products, since these will only add to the oily appearance of your hair. Furthermore, try to use a natural bristle brush once a day to brush the hair (but only when it is completely dry) in order to help distribute the natural oils in the hair along the hair shaft. Do not over-brush the hair, simply work your way from front to back along the scalp and then from back to front, until you have completely covered the entire scalp.

Oily Scalp & Dry Ends

This type of combination hair problem can be overcome with a few helpful techniques. First, when shampooing the hair, do not work the lather through to the ends of the hair, instead, apply a small amount of shampoo to the scalp and massage at the scalp area only, then rinse the hair thoroughly. Use your rinse-through conditioner on the ends of the hair, and a leave-in conditioner if needed on the ends as well. Additionally, when you’ve finished washing and conditioning your hair, rinse your scalp with cool water to close the pores of the scalp and minimize the oil production for a while.

Knotted / Tangled Hair from Sleeping (Bedhead)

This is a common complaint, but one that I haven’t heard many people address. I don’t know if people think that they just have to ‘live with it’ or what, but this can be helped. Most people don’t realize it, but the pillows we sleep on can be very hard on our hair, especially if we are restless sleepers who toss and turn a lot.

Some women with long hair combat this problem by braiding their hair before sleep, while others use a sleeping cap to protect their hair. These are both good suggestions. The problem is that the overlapping scales that form the cuticle of the hair get roughed up by rubbing against the fibers of our pillowcases and bedding.

If braiding and sleeping caps aren’t your thing, try getting silk or satin pillowcases. Not only are they luxurious and comfortable, but they cause less friction and are gentler on the hair. The result is less hair damage and more “good hair days” in the mornings.

Split Ends

Another more common hair complaint is “split ends”. Splits ends are exactly what they sounds like they would be: the end of the hair has “split” along its length into multiple fractions. In some cases, the hair will have “split” along the length at a point up from the end, but the result is the same. The hair looks frayed, and frizzed.

Split ends are generally caused by styling damage (such as over-drying or vigorous brushing) and can be more prevalent in dry or more fragile hair types (such as curly or coarser hair). Since the hair grows out of the scalp, and continues in the direction it grows from start to finish, the way in which the hair is cared for as it grows has a cumulative effect on the condition it keeps. So, unless you take extra-special care of your hair as it grows out, there will be inevitable signs of “wear and tear” on the ends of the hair.

The only real way to be rid of “split ends” is to trim away the damaged ends of the hair. This can be accomplished by going to the salon for a standard “maintenance trim” and some of you may be perfectly comfortable doing it yourself. However, some folks are working to try and grow out the length of their hair, and too-frequent maintenance cuts only hinder the ability to gain any length.

In these cases, try using the following method to remove the split ends without removing the length of the hair:

Section the hair into manageable sections and secure the sections you aren’t currently working with out of the way. Divide the section you are working with into smaller segments (approximately ½-inch square at the scalp) and twist the segment in a downward motion along its length. You will see the “split and frayed” ends of the hairs poking out along the length of the twisted segment. Using your scissors, carefully snip these frayed ends off along the length of the twist and move to the next segment of hair and repeat the process.

You may want to enlist the aid of a friend depending on the length of your hair and your maneuverability. The process will be time-consuming, but is well worth the effort in the end.